INDIA - the experience of a lifetime
Posted on Feb 4th, 2010
by
Fearless
WELL, I'm home from two months in India and Bhutan.
I haven't been able to write before now, because I'm been so busy shouting "Hallelujah" and dancing the fandango.
When I arrived in 'Incredible India' (my first port of call was Kerala, in the south), I was amazed and shocked and amused and horrified. It's just such an amazing mix of experiences. One minute my mouth would be gaping open at some incredible sight and the next minute I would be laughing out loud at something on the other end of the scale of experiences.
I saw families of five on a tiny little motor scooter - toddler standing at the front, dad next, another youngster behind him, and mum on the back, holding a baby. You would often see three men on a bike, or two - one driving and the other holding a television, or a door, or two chairs or whatever had to be moved. A poor donkey would be laden down with more than what you could squeeze into a pick up truck. Or a camel would amble past, towing a huge wooden cart. One day I literally dropped my bag on the ground and ran to snap a photo of an elephant rumbling by. But then felt sick when I saw the shackles on its feet.
There were two things that I could not accept or get used to in India - the filth everywhere and the way they neglected their stray dogs.
It made me angry to see this incredible country, disrespected. I was shocked when a couple I did the backwaters tour with in Kerala admired the view, then threw their drink bottles into the water. "How could you do that?!" I exclaimed. "How can you admire how beautiful it is, then pollute it with your rubbish?" "Oh, sorry," they apologised, "it's just habit, it's something we don't even think about."
I couldn't think of why a whole nation is content to throw their rubbish out the door, leaving the wind to blow it away. They have made their whole country a rubbish dump. Even at the Taj Mahal, the most beautiful building in the world I think, people still dropped their rubbish on the ground rather than putting it in the bins provided (a rarity in India - the bins, that is, not the rubbish).
Stray dogs are left to fend for themselves, so they fight for territory and food and are in such poor condition. Flea-ridden, mange, skinny, gooey-eyes, sad, sad faces. It broke my heart. As much as possible I tried to feed as many as I could. Whenever I went into town by auto-rickshaw, I would buy a bag of dry dog food and throw it out along the way home, to the dogs on the side of the road. I also saved my foodscraps from meals and cadged whatever I could from restaurants whenever I saw a dog in need.
At night, when I heard dog fights or a dog being attacked, I would cringe in my bed, my heart breaking at the poor defenceless little creature being mauled. I found several dead dogs on the beach while I was there.
On my morning walk, I gave dry food (I never saw cans of dog food), to a couple of families who had taken a dog in. One of them had a puppy, so full of love and vitality, but they had it tied to a tree on a bit of rope about three or four foot long. It had no water that I could see, even though I explained over and over again in pantomime - one bowl for the dry food and one bowl for water.
The children gave me a christmas card, and on the envelope they had written, "Open with a smile in your heart".
Before I relate the rest of this story, I should tell you that Indians are terrified of dogs. They used to have a really bad problem with rabies at one stage and I think it's become part of their genetic makeup to think that any dog is going to kill them. So, in a way, it was very brave of these people to take on a puppy.
I decided that I would show by example how they could get a lot of enjoyment out of their delightful little puppy and so I asked if they minded if I took it for a walk. They didn't, but the first time the father let it off the rope, it ran straight up to the children and jumped up on them in sheer delight, and they all SCREAMED and ran, terrified, into the house. The poor pup got a whack from the father, and I tried to explain to the children that the dog wasn't attacking them, it was wanting to play with them, but they couldn't be convinced.
When I walked down the road ... I am not kidding you ... people ran and hid in their houses. A couple of old ladies screamed. Mothers clasped their children to them. This was a PUPPY I was walking, not a rottweiler or a wild tiger. I thought it was funny, and became such an oddity that in the end, people were bringing their children OUT of the house just to see this mad woman going by.
No doubt people questioned why I was bothering with the dogs, when there were so many humans in need, but I figured humans had the wherewithal to fend for themselves. The hardest thing for me was seeing how the dogs responded when I approached them ... 98% of the time they cringed away, so unused to human kindness.
In Australia, our local councils take stray dogs into the pound, and if the dogs are not claimed within a certain time period or are deemed 'dangerous' or not likely to be rehoused, they are 'humanely' put to sleep. I kept wondering at the morality of our two, completely different, systems.
Kerala is a very unusual place. I think it has the first democratically-elected communist government in the world. Very unusual in such a religious country, given that most of its citizens are Christian, Muslim or Hindu. The state alternates between the communist party and the congress party - given each one five years in turn to show what they can do for the people. It has been this way for decades apparently.
One person pointed out to me, "We thought the communist party was a communalistic party."
I had no plans at all as to what I wanted to do in India, but when I mentioned to the resort owner where I was staying, that I was interested in ayurvedic treatments, he organised a visit to a local clinic. They signed me up for a three week treatment regimen - two hours a day for 21 days. I had to agree to follow a vegetarian diet, which is something I wanted to do anyway and have continued. I was surprised that there wasn't any particular 'assessment' of my health, but I figured maybe the doctor (a fourth generation ayurvedic clinician), knew from looking at me what I needed.
The masseuses who worked on me - Anada and Ayuna - assured me that I would look ten years younger and "get shape" by the end of my treatment, although they did stress, sometimes the full effects may not be seen until three months afterwards. (I'll let you know).
So each day, I was given a head massage for about 15 minutes and then a full body massage for an hour. This 'massage' was not the deep tissue work I've always been used to, but long-limb rubs - no manipulation at all. My body was literally slathered in oil and the two women worked on me simultaneously. I was completely naked, except for this tiny little strip of calico which was tied between my legs from a string around my waist.
To amuse them while I worked, I would sing so now there will be generations of Indians who will pass on to their children, "Sugar in the mornin', sugar in the evenin', sugar at supper time ... be my little sugar and love me all the time."
In the second week of treatment, I still had the head massage, but instead of a long-limb massage, I had warmed oil drizzled over me. THE most sensually, relaxing experience I've ever had. (I thought warm buttermilk over my forehead was relaxing, but this was tongue-hanging-out-the-side-of-my-mouth kind of relaxing). (Think Homer Simpson kind of relaxed).
The final week of treatment was head massage and then warm oil being drizzled over my forehead only. This treatment is meant to relax / stimulate the brain and I can't say that I found it an altogether pleasant experience (although I loved it the first time I had it, several years ago).
By the time my round of ayurvedic massage treatments had finished, I had been in Kerala for almost a month and I was itching to get moving and explore more of India. I had grown very close to Annie, the owner of the resort and she and her husband Roshan, had invited me to spend Christmas with them, but when I checked airline tickets to head up towards the north of India, I was horrified how expensive they were. Then I saw that the fares were much-reduced if I left the next day, which I rushed to do.
I literally ran out the door of the resort, with Annie in tears saying she didn't want me to go. She'd just broken her foot a couple of days before and I did feel like a deserter, leaving in such a hurry, but I had come to explore India and I wasn't seeing all that much in Puthenthorpe and Trivandum. I just wanted to go. It was time. But I cried all the way to the airport. On the way though, the taxi driver stopped off at an Aircell office so I could buy an Indian sim card since my brand new Telstra phone was totally useless. I'd organised international roaming before I left, but in the whole month, I think I'd only got reception once in a little isolated spot in Trivandum.
When you go to India, everyone tells you, "Be careful of your money! Watch out for thieves! Don't trust anyone! They'll rob you blind." So when I flew into Calcutta, I braced myself for the worst. I'd once read that Calcutta had been described as "the arsehole of the world", so I was ready for seeing dead babies in rubbish bins, bodies in the streets, beggars at every turn.
My darling on-line friend, Girish, had worded me up about making sure that I organised pre-paid taxis whenever I arrived anywhere, and not to venture out of any airport or bus station until I'd been to the Pre-Paid Taxi counter. So, after I had collected my luggage at Calcutta Airport, I went straight to the pre paid taxi counter and joined the queue. I'd been there for about ten minutes or so, and noticed that we hadn't progressed at all in that time - in fact, I was even further back in the line that I'd been when I joined it! I looked up ahead and saw that latecomers were just bypassing the queue and going straight to the window, pushing in and they were being served!
I made all sorts of "that's not fair" noises in the queue, but I seemed to be the only one who felt that there had been any injustice. "They must be in a bigger hurry than we are," one fellow queue person offered up as a possible explanation for what I saw as rudeness. Eventually (when all those extremely eager-to-get-home people had been served), I made it to the front of the queue (by this time they were ready to turn the lights out at the airport terminal) and I was given a taxi number to find in the melee of taxi drivers out front. (HANDY HINT TO POTENTIAL INDIA TRAVELLERS: Take a torch/flashlight with you so you can find taxi numbers in the dark).
When I arrived at my accommodation, there was a doorman (a good sign) but when I went inside, there were people sleeping on the floor of the reception area (not a good sign) and I was told that even though I had a reservation, they had run out of room and I would be staying at the hotel across the lane. Mmmmmmm .... Over to the other hotel (which didn't have a doorman) and down a dark hall (tripped over some rolled up carpet or something that had been left in the way) and out the back .... Mmmmmmmm ..... (I seem to be away from everybody else .... Mmmmmmmmm ..... Is that a good thing or a bad thing?) Into my room .... Ooooooooookay .... seems fine so far
In India, rather than having a pair of sheets on the bed, they have a bottom sheet only and then a blanket. I'm thinking, "I wonder how often they wash the blankets?" But I'm tired ... the place looks okay ... there's a bathroom attached to the bedroom ... Okay, I'll stay. As I'm settling in, I can hear all sorts of noises coming through the bathroom louvre window ... Is someone trying to break in? I can hear voices. Is someone living out there? I wonder how strong my door lock is? Does this phone work? Eventually though, weariness overwhelms me and I slip beneath that lurid blanket and put all thoughts of who slept here last out of my head.
In the morning, keen to see where I am, I throw open the barred window of my room, and this is what I see - a demolition site.
WOW! I've never seen anything like this in my life. I feel like I've landed somewhere just after the apocalypse. And yet birds are singing. Where am I? I head out into the street to find out.
"Keep your head down! Don't make eye contact. Just ignore them, if any beggars come near you. And don't go with anyone you don't know". All this advice sounded in my head, but it was still early and the crowd wasn't out in full yet, so I was able to amble along and take in the early morning sights and sounds of Calcutta waking up.
On the way into the city, the night before, I had seen a lot of rickshaw drivers, asleep under their rickshaws and so full of pity was I for them, that I had determined I would give the first one I came across 200 rupees NOT to have a ride.
The first one I saw, leapt to attention when he saw me approaching, but I waved him off and said (not knowing whether he understood or not), "No, I don't want a ride ... but here, here is something just to make life a bit easier for you today." He smiled broadly and gave me that beautiful 'Namaste' gesture I love. Palms clasped together and held towards your chest or mouth. Head bowed a little.
From a purely selfish point of view, it's easy to feel like a saint in India. A small kindness that you feel will make a big difference in someone else's life. But the ocean of need is vast there. You could spend all day, every day, handing out ten dollar bills, or even hundred dollar bills and still not make a dent in the void.
I got 'taken' very early in my first day in Calcutta. A woman approached me, distressed about her sick baby. "Please help me aunty, my baby she is sick. I no ask for money, just milk, my baby she sick." Her husband stood beside her, balefully waving his stump of an arm at me, "No can work," he lamented. She tugged at my arm, desperate.
"Oh for god's sake, how can anyone refuse?" I thought to myself. They whipped me around the corner and straight to a shanty type grocery shop. I don't even recall asking the shop keeper for what I wanted before he thrust two big containers of milk powder at the couple and they disappeared out of sight.
"A thousand rupees," he told me. Inside my head I went, "A THOUSAND RUPEES!!!!!!! FOR TWO CONTAINERS OF MILK POWDER?????" (A thousand rupees is approximately $30 AUS) And in those few seconds, I'm also doing the calculation for how many Australian dollars it is, and thinking, "Well, I didn't ask him for it, they did, what am I doing paying for?" and I'm also thinking, "I bet as soon as I disappear around the corner, they'll bring that back and split the profits with the shopkeeper" but my innate sense of politeness got the better of me and I thought, "Well, I did tell them I would buy the milk for them, so I guess I'd better pay for it."
So I paid the thousand rupees, thought to myself, "You bloody fool" and reckoned that as far as being 'taken' goes, it could have been a lot worse I guess. (I saw that same couple a few days later and she made another plea (maybe we westerners all look alike or she thought I was such a soft touch, I'd go for it again!) I gave her a withering look and said, "You got to be kidding - you've got all you're going to get out of me!"
But there were plenty more where she came from. One, was a charming little girl, probably about eight years old. She had that primitive gypsy way about her - very clued up on how the world works.
There was something very endearing about her, as well as something very wild. I asked her once if she had ever thought about living anywhere else and she very matter of factly said, "Oh lots of people ask me if I want to go and live with them - in America, England, Italy, Brazil, Germany ... lots of people. But I stay here."
She followed me a few times into the market, where I was having some clothes made, and the other shop keepers tried to chase her off, but she was adamant, "I'm not a beggar, I'm working like you" and she would bring her little tray up so they could see it - her tray of hair clips and combs. She followed me back to the hotel a couple of times (under the guise of 'protecting' me she said) ... lol And she really was attentive. Any time a rickshaw came close, she would pull me towards her, warning, "Look out aunty!" (She was probably testing my pockets each time for all I know!)
Other 'guardians' would approach me on the street, if I ever stopped for a moment to check a road name or look for a certain shop. They would offer help to show you the way, and then ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS ... suggest a side trip to their cousin's shop, or their friend's shop, or their shop. In the end, I got chased out of Calcutta with all this 'help'. I just couldn't stand people constantly trying to talk me into something I didn't want to do.
But before I left, I visited the Park Hotel ... an oasis of calm and beauty and serenity ... for probably THE most exclusive type massage I've ever had. A pair of little slippers (so you didn't bring the dirt of Calcutta into their inner sanctum), a luxurious robe and your own huge shower to wash away your troubles.
When I was doing business with the tailor in the market, I had noticed the stallholder opposite him, had several puppies under the floor of his stall. "Will you find homes for the pups?" I asked him. He seemed to find this a very strange concept. "No," he responded, "when they are ready, they will find their own way in the world."
Such is the strong sense of fatalism in India ... where even little puppies have to find their way in the world.
Next time: Darjeeling
(Photos above:
1. The beautiful Palm Leaves Resort in Putenthorpe, where Annie provides the most delectable food (that's my room up the top).
2. The beach in front of the resort where I would watch the sunset over the Arabian Sea each night.
3. Fishermen would come each morning to try their luck in the sea. Village custom is that any man who helps with the catch, even if he pulls for only a minute or two, is still given a share.
4. Even though I tried to make friends with these dogs, they would not warm to me, preferring to keep their distance.
5. When I opened my window the first morning in Calcutta, this was the sight that greeted me ... like something from the apocalypse I thought, but in reality, a demolition site.
6. Despite dire warnings of murder, mayhem, beggars and thievery, I couldn't wait to get out amongst it in Calcutta. You could have a video camera running on top of your head there and never run out of fascinating sights.
7. If you ever want to gasp and laugh at the same time, just get out on to the road in India. Note: Traffic in India is on the LEFT HAND SIDE of the road (note where this little fellow and his father (and my taxi) are - on the right hand side of the road!
The hierarchy of the road is basically - pedestrian, bicycles, rickshaws, auto rickshaws, cars, buses and trucks ... and I mean this is how they are stretched out across the road ... on both sides of the road! Everyone drives towards one another with great intent and then at the last possible instant, they veer to their side of the road. It's hilarious and hair rising at the same time.
BUT I have to say ... I never, in all the months I was there, saw an accident AND I didn't even notice scratches on the sides of cars where they had had near misses. It all just seems to work.

Help



